Daylily Culture by Bob Hale, Skyland Gardens

03-20-2006

DAYLILY CULTURE

LOCATION - Daylilies need a location where they get at least one half day of sun, preferably, afternoon sun.
SOIL PREPARATION - The bed should be prepared to a depth of 8-10" or more. In red clay, most any type of soil additive will help. Some useful additives include baled sphagnum peak moss, composted horse or cow manures, organic peat, top soil and compost. In sandy soils, organic soil additives help to retain moisture and fertilizers. Like most plants, daylilies respond well to soil improvements. If you have acid soil(below pH of 6), lime will help, as daylilies prefer soils with a pH of 6-7.
PLANTING - Daylilies need to planted to the depth which they were originally growing, The white band around the base of the fan indicates the proper planting depth. The foliage should be cut back to 6-8" before planting and the roots need to be spread out when planting. Allow 24-36" between plants in the garden. Water the plant well after planting to insure a good start. Adding fertilizer will help when planting. Daylilies can be left in place 4-5 years before needing to be dug up, divided, and replanted. When replanting, use a grouping of 3 double fans, to give the appearance of a clump the following season.
WATERING - Water is essential for good growth and bloom. Daylilies need about an inch of water per week, either from rain or a garden hose.
FERTILIZER - Fertilizing will promote good growth, as long as it is not over- done. I normally add a field fertilizer, such as 6-12-12 or 10-10-10, in March. This is followed by a water soluble fertilizer(Miracle-Gro, Peters 20-20-20, or Rapid-Gro) later in the spring. Another alternative is using a slow release fertilizer. I have used StaGreen Nursery Special(12-6-6) with good success, especially, on newly planted spring additions to the garden.
WHEN TO PLANT - In our area, daylilies can be planted from early April through early October. Daylilies can be moved bare-rooted throughout the growing season, as long as, the tops are cut back. I do not move daylilies after early October, as the plants need to re-establish a good root system before the ground freezes.
MULCHING - Mulching serves several purposes - it reduces water loss during the summer, it helps control weeds, it helps prevent heaving of the plants in winter, and it just looks good. Mulches used locally include pine bark nuggets and mini-nuggets, pine bark mulch, pine needles, compost, and decorative stones.
INSECTS AND OTHER PROBLEMS - Our most common insect problems are thrips and aphids. Both can be controlled with common garden insecticides, such as, Malathion, Sevin, Diazinon, Orthenex, or Cygon. The last two are systemics which enter the plant and remain effective 5-6 weeks. There are Safer brand products for insect control, also. Slugs can be a controlled by slug baits, stale beer in a saucer or other means. The last problem is daylily rust. This appears as bright orange spots on the underside of the foliage, especially on the outer leaves. Treatment is to remove the affected leaves and treat the plant and surrounding plants with Daconil Ultrex, Immunox, or Dithane. Rust will not kill a plant and does not survive our winters.
COMPANION PLANTS - As daylily bloom normally lasts 6-7 weeks in our area, companion plants offer color during the remaining growing season. Some suggestions include all types of spring bulbs(daffodils, tulips, dutch iris, etc.), iris
(bearded, siberian, Japanese), peonies, smaller oramental grasses, true bulb lilies(Asiatic, Orientals, & trumpet), other perennials, and annuals(marigolds, dwarf dahlias, mums, scarlet sage, etc.)

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